Quito, Ecuador

Kate and Sla, the Russians, drove me across the border into Ecuador. We stopped at the equator and a dormant volcano called Pululahua then they dropped me in Quito.

Hola, Ecuador.

Hola, Ecuador.

Ecuadorean roads are good quality.

Ecuadorean roads are good quality.

Then we reached the middle of the world. Seeing as all three of us had started in the Arctic in Alaska, this seemed like a fairly significant achievement.

Then we reached the middle of the world. Seeing as all three of us had started in the Arctic in Alaska, this seemed like a fairly significant achievement.

Here be pirates. Or something.

Here be pirates. Or something.

Mist.

Mist.

More mist.

More mist.

Volcanic crater.

Volcanic crater.

First snowy mountain, on the way into Quito.

First snowy mountain, on the way into Quito.

Square, Old Town, Quito.

Square, Old Town, Quito.

Square, Old Town, Quito.

Square, Old Town, Quito.

A random street in Quito.

A random street in Quito.

Soon I will be Brexit-proof!

Soon I will be Brexit-proof!

Giant Christmas tree in early October.

Giant Christmas tree in early October.

Quito has nice parks.

Quito has nice parks.

See.

See.

And some nice old streets.

And some nice old streets.

Don't hide in the closet or make jokes of bad taste.

Don’t hide in the closet or make jokes of bad taste.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 62,734 km.
Total number of rides: 448.

Little Switzerland, Colombia

From Popayan I got a ride with a trucker towards Pasto. We were about an hour and a half away when the sun began to set and the trucker got told he couldn’t keep driving because there’d been an accident which had blocked part of the road ahead. So I had to get out and quickly find another ride, or else end up stuck on this high plateau in the dark, which wouldn’t have been great. But I was very lucky and got picked up almost immediately by a couple of lovely Russians, Kate and Sla, driving from Alaska to Chile. They ended up giving me a three-day ride, first that night to a high-altitude lake and then all the way into Ecuador. Sometimes life just works out.

Leaving Popayan.

Leaving Popayan.

In the truck.

In the truck.

On the plateau...

On the plateau…

...under the setting sun.

…under the setting sun.

Then these guys picked me up (picture taken the following morning, when a few mechanical corrections were necessary).

Then these guys picked me up (picture taken the following morning, when a few mechanical corrections were necessary).

That first night we drove to a high-altitude lake called Laguna La Cocha and found a place to stay. It was bloody freezing, hence all the clothes.

That first night we drove to a high-altitude lake called Laguna La Cocha and found a place to stay. It was bloody freezing, hence all the clothes.

Next morning we went out to look at the lake in the rain.

Next morning we went out to look at the lake in the rain.

Canal running out of the lake...

Canal running out of the lake…

...to the rather strange community of Little Switzerland.

…to the rather strange community of Little Switzerland.

With wooden bridges over the canal.

With wooden bridges over the canal.

And little boats everywhere.

And little boats everywhere.

Misty mountains in the background.

Misty mountains in the background.

Another bridge.

Another bridge.

Pleasant hills.

Pleasant hills.

Colombia's interpretation of Swiss music.

Colombia’s interpretation of Swiss music.

Crazy paving.

Crazy paving.

Crazy balancing.

Crazy balancing.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 62,313 km.
Total number of rides: 448.

Popayan, Colombia

Eventually I did get to Popayan. It was just a city, y’know.

Desert with a completely unpronounceable name in half a hollowed-out fruit shell. It had lots of sugar, which was the main thing.

Desert with a completely unpronounceable name in half a hollowed-out fruit shell. It had lots of sugar, which was the main thing.

Streets of Popayan.

Streets of Popayan.

I mean, you could hardly not walk up here, could you?

I mean, you could hardly not walk up here, could you?

Going up.

Going up.

And up.

And up.

Towards the lord.

Towards the lord.

And back down again.

And back down again.

Noice.

Noice.

Dull. Popayan's alright. Go if you're in the area. Don't fly there specifically.

Dull. Popayan’s alright. Go if you’re in the area. Don’t fly there specifically.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 62,043 km.
Total number of rides: 443.

Buga, Colombia

From Salento I got rides to Buga, a town which was somehow less interesting than the hassle it took me to leave it.

Nice sunset view from the roof of my hostel. The pink church is one of the main pilgrimage sites in Colombia.

Nice sunset view from the roof of my hostel. The pink church is one of the main pilgrimage sites in Colombia.

Interesting trees on the way out.

Interesting trees on the way out.

And some kind of fancy-pants mansion.

And some kind of fancy-pants mansion.

Then I was faced with this thing.

Then I was faced with this thing.

This thing. Never seen one before in Colombia...

This thing. Never seen one before in Colombia…

...but perhaps they wanted to celebrate having a smooth road with three lanes on either side.

…but perhaps they wanted to celebrate having a smooth road with three lanes on either side.

Anyhow, I made several short hops towards Popayan.

Anyhow, I made several short hops towards Popayan.

Getting there...

Getting there…

And stopped in some nice spots on the way.

And stopped in some nice spots on the way.

Shade was important.

Shade was important.

And this tree trunk was cool.

And this tree trunk was cool.

Just patiently waiting...

Just patiently waiting…

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 61,960 km.
Total number of rides: 442.

Salento, Colombia

So I began my backtrack. It took a day and a half to get to Riosucio and three in total to get to Salento, a popular touristy town in the mountains where I rented a room for two weeks and did a few admin related things I needed to get done.

River in Peñalisa during the backtrack.

River in Peñalisa during the backtrack.

Nice tree-lined road during the backtrack.

Nice tree-lined road during the backtrack.

Colombian truck driver representing with the best flag.

Colombian truck driver representing with the best flag.

Spent a night in the big city of Pereira (boring, don't bother) and this was the little shanty town on the edge of the city as I walked out.

Spent a night in the big city of Pereira (boring, don’t bother) and this was the little shanty town on the edge of the city as I walked out.

Wasn't having any luck so I walked all the way to the bottom of the long, steep hill hoping to find a nice flat spot to hitch. I did, but had to stand beside this monstrosity of a motel  for at least two minutes before I got a ride.

Wasn’t having any luck so I walked all the way to the bottom of the long, steep hill hoping to find a nice flat spot to hitch. I did, but had to stand beside this monstrosity of a motel for at least two minutes before I got a ride.

Weird abandoned building watching over me as I waited for a ride on the side-road into Salento.

Weird abandoned building watching over me as I waited for a ride on the side-road into Salento.

In Salento I found an Indian restaurant where I had a good curry and a mango lassi.

In Salento I found an Indian restaurant where I had a good curry and a mango lassi.

And in fact I rented my room above the same restaurant. It was a lovely place to spend a couple of weeks.

And in fact I rented my room above the same restaurant. It was a lovely place to spend a couple of weeks.

Sometimes the fog would roll in.

Sometimes the fog would roll in.

But mostly the area around Salento looked like this.

But mostly the area around Salento looked like this.

And the road south was good and smooth when I eventually got out of there.

And the road south was good and smooth when I eventually got out of there.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 61,703 km.
Total number of rides: 435.

The hills outside Jardin, Colombia

From Jardin I tried to hitch east through the mountains to Riosucio (which means dirty river in Spanish) but it turned out the road was basically impassable so I had to turn around and do a gigantic loop back on myself to keep going. I did make it 6 kilometres out of Jardin, however, and ended up staying at a delightful little guesthouse in the hills. Enjoy.

I walked up the steep hill leading out of Jardin and took a photo of this lovely piece of farm equipment.

I walked up the steep hill leading out of Jardin and took a photo of this lovely piece of farm equipment.

Then I got a ride in this little car with a nice couple who owned a guesthouse in the hills.

Then I got a ride in this little car with a nice couple who owned a guesthouse in the hills.

There it is, across the bridge.

There it is, across the bridge.

Fish.

Fish.

Feeding birds in the garden.

Feeding birds in the garden.

Hoss.

Hoss.

Walking back to the "main" road the next morning.

Walking back to the “main” road the next morning.

Further along.

Further along.

Second hoss.

Second hoss.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 61428 km.
Total number of rides: 425.

Jardin, Colombia

From Santa Fe I headed to Jardin, another nice town in the department of Antioquia. It was down a little road in the hills which wasn’t easy to get back from, but more about that in the next post.

Nice sunny day on the way out of Santa Fe.

Nice sunny day on the way out of Santa Fe.

Probably the most Alaskan-looking spot in the whole of Colombia.

Probably the most Alaskan-looking spot in the whole of Colombia.

And it even had some kind of mining operation to complete the look!

And it even had some kind of mining operation to complete the look!

Getting deeper into the hills.

Getting deeper into the hills.

Didn't quite make it to Jardin the first day so spent the night in Hispania, with its elegant little church hidden behind the trees.

Didn’t quite make it to Jardin the first day so spent the night in Hispania, with its elegant little church hidden behind the trees.

Roads through little towns.

Roads through little towns.

Jardin's big church.

Jardin’s big church.

Horses in the main square.

Horses in the main square.

Went to get a cable car up the hill but it wasn't running...

Went to get a cable car up the hill but it wasn’t running…

...so I stared at it from the bottom instead.

…so I stared at it from the bottom instead.

Then one afternoon it pissed it down, as it often does in Colombia at this time of year.

Then one afternoon it pissed it down, as it often does in Colombia at this time of year.

And the hostel had interesting architecture!

And the hostel had interesting architecture!

And then on a sunny day I walked out of town.

And then on a sunny day I walked out of town.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 61,422 km.
Total number of rides: 424.

Santa Fe de Antioquia, Colombia

Spent a few nights in the town of Santa Fe de Antioquia, a colonial town founded way back in 1541. It was a pleasant place to chill out.

Rather nice view from the upper floor of my hostel.

Rather nice view from the upper floor of my hostel.

Couldn't complain about the pool, either, especially for $10 a night.

Couldn’t complain about the pool, either, especially for $10 a night.

The central square of Santa Fe is theoretically beautiful but they were repaving it the whole time I was there.

The central square of Santa Fe is theoretically beautiful but they were repaving it the whole time I was there.

Pleasant colonial-style streets.

Pleasant colonial-style streets.

I've always loved buildings with central courtyards. It's just a great architectural style in a place with good weather.

I’ve always loved buildings with central courtyards. It’s just a great architectural style in a place with good weather.

Cobblestones.

Cobblestones.

View down towards the hidden river.

View down towards the hidden river.

Flowers.

Flowers.

Bicycle.

Bicycle.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 61,281 km.
Total number of rides: 417.

Apartado, Colombia

For many years my goal has been to hitchhike from the Arctic in Alaska to the far south of Chile in Patagonia. So far I’ve hitched, in two parts, from Alaska to Cancun in Mexico and from Cancun to Necocli on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. After my trip across Canada this summer I flew to Bogota, the capital of Colombia, and then flew internally to the unexciting city of Monteria, which has the closest airport to Necocli. My plan was to get the bus to Necocli and start hitching from there but the bus station in Monteria was significantly further from my hotel than the edge of town so it seemed easier to start hitching from Monteria instead.

You’ll notice that I take a lot of photos of the roads when I stand around waiting for rides. It’s deliberate. I’m trying to preserve an impression of what life is like in and around the small towns I’m usually in and what hitchhiking looks like from my perspective. I’m doing this trip more for the hitchhiking itself, and the landscapes I’m passing through, than for the normal touristic sites people visit when they come to South America. It’s an interesting and different way to experience life and I want to share what it’s like.

The bridge out of Monteria. The walk out to catch your first ride in a new country is always a bit nerve-racking because you don't quite know what's going to happen.

The bridge out of Monteria. The walk out to catch your first ride in a new country is always a bit nerve-racking because you don’t quite know what’s going to happen.

I decided this was my best spot. It took a while to get a ride because there were swarms of motorbikes on the inside lane, meaning the cars driving around them couldn't see me clearly. I'd say it took 45 minutes to get picked up.

I decided this was my best spot. It took a while to get a ride because there were swarms of motorbikes on the inside lane, meaning the cars driving around them couldn’t see me clearly. I’d say it took 45 minutes to get picked up.

Fortunately I had this tree to shelter under from the sun.

Fortunately I had this tree to shelter under from the sun.

Another river later on that day. There are lots of pipes suspended over rivers like this in Latin America. I don't know what we do with them in western countries—maybe run them under the riverbed?—but it sure ain't this.

Another river later on that day. There are lots of pipes suspended over rivers like this in Latin America. I don’t know what we do with them in western countries—maybe run them under the riverbed?—but it sure ain’t this.

There can be a lot of walking in the tropics. Unlike Canada, for example, most of the time there are farms or people's houses alongside the road, even in the middle of nowhere, so you often have to walk to find somewhere clear to stand on a bit of road where someone can actually pull over.

There can be a lot of walking in the tropics. Unlike Canada, for example, most of the time there are farms or people’s houses alongside the road, even in the middle of nowhere, so you often have to walk to find somewhere clear to stand on a bit of road where someone can actually pull over.

Having said that, people often just stop in the middle of the road if they see me and everyone has to drive around them. Nobody minds, everyone does that sort of thing.

Having said that, people often just stop in the middle of the road if they see me and everyone has to drive around them. Nobody minds, everyone does that sort of thing.

And sometimes I stand next to buildings cause there's nowhere else to go. Colombia's very Catholic so there are often small statues like this one of the Virgin Mary by the side of the road.

And sometimes I stand next to buildings cause there’s nowhere else to go. Colombia’s very Catholic so there are often small statues like this one of the Virgin Mary by the side of the road.

In general I've found my chances of getting picked up are significantly higher if I stand next to a lamppost, road sign or something else tall and upright. I have no idea why but it's the case everywhere I've ever hitched.

In general I’ve found my chances of getting picked up are significantly higher if I stand next to a lamppost, road sign or something else tall and upright. I have no idea why but it’s the case everywhere I’ve ever hitched.

All the previous pictures were in one day, at the end of which I spent the night in the town of Apartado. South of there, the landscape changes a little...

All the previous pictures were in one day, at the end of which I spent the night in the town of Apartado. South of there, the landscape changes a little…

...because we get away from the coastal flats and into the mountains.

…because we get away from the coastal flats and into the mountains.

And that’s all you’re getting.

Total distance hitchhiked: 225 km.
Total number of rides: 3.

Total distance hitchhiked (lifetime): 61,027 km.
Total number of rides (lifetime): 416.

Bogota, Colombia

After a brief stopover in Vancouver to visit some family, I flew to Bogota, Colombia. I spent a few days getting used to the altitude (2640m, which you can definitely feel when you come from sea level) and wandering around the streets. The pope was there for the first few days, which meant that absolutely everything was shut, including all the good museums, and there were police all over the place, but he left just before I did, which was a relief. Mostly, I just took pictures of streets so these photos aren’t particularly exciting.

Church in the central square...

Church in the central square…

...with lots of people.

…with lots of people.

Welcome, pope.

Welcome, pope.

Looking at the hills behind town.

Looking at the hills behind town.

Pretty street number 1.

Pretty street number 1.

Pretty street number 2.

Pretty street number 2.

Pretty street number 3.

Pretty street number 3.

Big buildings.

Big buildings.

Graffiti.

Graffiti.

And that’s all you’re getting, I’m afraid.

Total distance hitchhiked (lifetime): 61098 km.
Total number of rides (lifetime): 413.

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